Mexico – Day 6: Guelaguetza

Today was Oaxaca day. Our only full day here, and of course right in the middle of the Guelaguetza, the biggest festival of the year.

We had already seen a parade yesterday, walked through all the stalls and festivities, spontaneously done a private mezcal tasting and eaten at La Olla in the evening. So really quite a complete day already, especially for an arrival day.

This morning we finally understood how absurdly well placed our accommodation is. From the roof you look out over the whole city, and on the other side straight up to the Auditorio Guelaguetza. Last night there were even fireworks up there. Oaxaca looks almost unreal from above. Much lower and smaller than I had pictured. I somehow thought it would feel more like a big city. Instead it comes across as a very beautiful, very lively provincial capital, except that behind every second door there is another courtyard, a museum or some other lovely thing waiting.

For breakfast we had picked a café that revolves entirely around bread and coffee. Everything made in house, everything with an attention to detail that was almost silly.

I actually wanted to order something sweet at first. In the end it became a breakfast sandwich with egg, avocado, pickled onions and a garlic mayonnaise that went surprisingly perfectly with it. Sounds odd. Was fantastic. Somehow I always get pushed into becoming a savoury-breakfast person on holiday. There are worse fates.

After that we simply set off and explored the city all day, with a generous siesta break at midday. We walked without any particular goal. Oaxaca is one of those cities where you constantly stop somewhere, because around the next corner there is another colourful wall, a small courtyard or some shop. I have genuinely never experienced that anywhere else quite like this.

There was no big parade today (good thing we went out yesterday), but Oaxaca simply sent a single delegation past us as a free sample, dancing down the street. And that was actually perfect: five minutes of full colour, music, hats, embroidery, movement, and then on to eat, before "wow" could turn into "everybody please go away".

Speaking of which, the city was incredibly busy, but everything was astonishingly unstressful. Lots of people, music, festival stalls, traditional dress, giant figures and colours everywhere. Even so, I never had that "I need to get out of here right now" feeling that usually hits me after ten minutes at big street festivals (hi, every street parade back home ^^). Maybe because everything is on a smaller scale. Low houses, short distances, courtyards, squares. You can always turn off somewhere and suddenly it is quiet again.

And speaking of turning off: in the afternoon it happened to us again. Nice door, quick look inside, and suddenly we were standing in a photography museum with a completely absurd courtyard, contemporary art, old stone walls, a chapel, huge alebrije-like creatures and this utterly escalated architecture.

In the evening we wanted to make the most of our last night, since this city is also known for its food. Restaurant with a roof terrace, view over the city and exactly that warm light just before sunset where everything suddenly looks as if someone had put a gold filter over the town. Honestly, I had no real idea beforehand what defines Oaxaca culinarily. Now I am going home with a fairly long list of things I will miss. Mole, tlayudas and memelitas above all.

And tomorrow the alarm goes off. 5 in the morning. Somehow that feels pretty unfair.

** Addendum **

My suspicion was confirmed: there was indeed one more huge firework display with musical accompaniment over the Auditorio to close things out, and we had a perfect view of it from our roof terrace. My partner even went up with the drone and filmed the fireworks from the air. I watched from the roof terrace, in an armchair, with a glass of red wine in my hand. Both methods had their merits. 🙂